Tips & Solutions:
Personal GPS Tracker

When you get the low battery alert, the Tracker still has 30% left to go – which could be about 2 days. If you want to lower this alert level to 15%, text 123456N1,15 to the Tracker. Then, you’ll get the low battery alert later rather than earlier, and still have enough time to get to it and charge it before it runs out. If you charge your Tracker too frequently, unnecessarily (i.e. when its still at one-third capicity) then you may reduce the overall longevity of the battery.

If you’re having any other related battery issues, please see the relevant section below on Battery & Charging Issues.

If ever you really need to get a location – and the Tracker doesn’t respond like it normally does, then try re-authorising your phone number.

It doesn’t hurt to re-send the authorisation text – if it hasn’t been deleted it will just over-write the old one. Its just a way of being sure!

If for some unknown reason the Tracker has reset itself, your number will no longer be set up as an authorised user. Send the authorisation text – 123456A1,+44[your mobile phone number without the first zero]. E.g. 123456A1,+447786444444. If you get the “1 TEL OK!” text back, then you know that the tracker is working ok – you just needed to re-authorise your number. You can now try the 123456F command again. If you still don’t get a response from 123456F, or get “ERROR!” back from the authorisation text, then you may have made an inaccuracy with your mobile number when sending the authorisation text. Look at your text history and just double check – remember, no spaces.

This is just for those urgent moments where its needed, as a back-up just-in-case. It could also be that the location text was taking a few minutes to get through, the SIM has run out of credit (although you should always keep up to date with the credit to ensure this doesn’t happen, or set the auto-topup feature with the network), or there are unavoidable network issues with the tracker network or your own mobile phone network.

If however you do think that the Tracker may have reset itself, then you’ll need to re-authorise any other numbers you had set up, as well as re-send the GPRS texts (if you have this function running) and any other geo-fencing commands you may have been running. This really shouldn’t happen often, but could happen if for example the Tracker suffers a particularly bad knock, or is left powered-off with no battery charge for a while.

In the manual, you’ll see that the authorised numbers work like this:

A1 = SOS alerts
A2 = SOS alerts
A3 = SOS alerts
A4 = Call 1 button
A5 = Call 2 button

There are actually three other empty slots you can use, which don’t get texts or calls from the SOS or call buttons:

A6 = [] A7 = [] A8 = []

They’re useful for:

– setting extra authorised numbers if you need them
– setting your authorised number here instead if you don’t wish to have any accidental SOS alerts or calls from the buttons
– setting numbers to be able to call into the tracker (more info on this below).

Some of the older devices won’t have this function, but its worth trying to see.

Its a very useful function if you are tracking someone at risk of falling or stroke – if the Tracker takes a bash, then an alert will be sent out.

You may also get an alert from this if you haven’t even set the command – some customers have reported alerts where the function is already active. This section will help you cancel the functions, as well as set it.

To set the “Man-down” function

This function will alert you if the tracker falls – or is moved quickly, suddenly.

Text 123456KLxxx where xxx is a number between 000 and 255 (the higher the number, the higher the sensitivity).

E.g. 123456KL040.

To cancel it again

Text 123456KL000 (this is basically setting zero sensitivity).

To set the “Tap” function

This function will alert you if the tracker takes a knock.

Text 123456KTxx where xx is a number between 00 and 31 (the higher the number, the higher the sensitivity).

E.g. 123456KT010.

To cancel it again

Text 123456KT00 (this is basically setting zero sensitivity).

We hope you find it useful.

If you get a random location alert sent – it could be because

a) The Tracker wearer has pressed the power button. This automatically initiates a location text to be sent out.

b) You previously requested a location when the GPS signal was absent (e.g. indoors and away from a window). When it goes back into signal, it will send the updated location again for you.

This is the man-down function, that is sometimes activated as default. Its designed to send you an alert if the tracker is moved at a sudden speed or shocked, for example if the wearer falls down. Its useful if the wearer is at risk of stroke and/or falling, for example.

To cancel the sudden-shock man-down function, text 123456KL000

To set the function, if you think it might be useful, text 123456KLnnn where n is a number from 000 to 100, which varies the sensitivity. So 000 is no sensitivity (this is the same as cancelling the function) and 100 is extremely sensitive. Somewhere in between you should find the right variance – try 123456K050 and then modify accordingly based on the false alarms.

This is the “Tap” alert function, that is sometimes activated as default. Its designed to send you an alert if the tracker is knocked. Its useful if the wearer is at risk of stroke and/or falling, for example.

To cancel the sudden-shock man-down function, text 123456KT00

To set the “Tap” function, text 123456KTxx where xx is a number between 00 and 31 (the higher the number, the higher the sensitivity).

E.g. 123456KT010.

If you are getting AUTO! alerts text, they will be often and regular, every few minutes or so. These are only ever sent to the phone number programmed in position A5, so the immediate thing to do would be to delete this number, by texting 123456A5,D.

Auto texts are usually sent because GPRS has been set up. You can try cancelling the auto-text function by texting 123456M0. If this doesn’t work, the best thing is to delete the number in position A5, or move it to position A7.

1) Obviously, if you’re not with the Tracker then you’ll need to make sure its switched on.

2) Did you set yourself up as an authorised user? Send 123456A1,+(your country code and mobile number, missing the first zero). E.g. 123456A1,+447786444444 to the Tracker. You should then get a “1 TEL OK!” response back to indicate this has been successful. At least now we know that the Tracker is responding – you just weren’t set up as an authorised user. You can now send 123456F to get a location text by reply.

3) The next thing to check would be the credit – has it run out? Log into your GiffGaff account (or your own network provider) to check. Please note we cannot help at all with lost GiffGaff usernames/passwords etc – they are an entirely different company.

4) Are there any network issues – either with your mobile phone or the network of the Tracker SIM? Sometimes there can be temporary issues, which affect any and every network and this unfortunately can’t be avoided. If the Tracker isn’t getting a GSM signal, either the orange light won’t flash, or all of the lights will flash together.

5) If you’ve already checked those things, and you have already set yourself up as an authorised user previously, then it could be that for some reason the Tracker has reset itself, therefore your number is no longer set up as an authorised user. This rarely happens, but may do if for example the network signal is lost for a while, or the Tracker is left switched off for a long duration. Try re-sending your authorisation text – 123456A1,+44[your number without the first zero]. E.g. 123456A1,+447786444444. If you get the “1 TEL OK!” text back, then you know that the tracker is working ok – you just needed to re-authorise your number. You can now try the 123456F command again.

Unfortunately when this happens, you’ll need to re-authorise any other numbers you had set up, as well as re-send the GPRS texts (if you have this function running) and any other geo-fencing commands you may have been running.

If you’ve sent 123456F and you haven’t been able to get a reply since setting up the tracker, then first check that the SIM is indeed activated and that there is enough credit on it.

The next likely cause is that you’ve made an error in setting up the mobile phone you are using as an authorised number.

Send 123456A1,+(your country code and mobile number, missing the first zero). E.g. 123456A1,+447786444444.

Please note that the number you set after 123456A1,+44 should be your own mobile phone number (without the first zero) – or whichever number you want to be authorised to send location requests. The authorised number shouldn’t be the tracker’s SIM number – this is where you send the text to!

If you are in the UK, then you absolutely need to remember the +44 before your phone number. If you don’t do this, you won’t get location texts back because the device won’t recognise your number.

Did you get your mobile number wrong in the text? You may feel certain that you authorised your number correctly – because you had “1 TEL OK!” replied back. This doesn’t mean that you got your mobile number correct in the text – the Tracker will just assume you were authorising a different mobile from the one that was used to send the text. So if you get “1 TEL OK!” back, but you still aren’t getting responses to location requests – then re-authorise your number and ensure you get your number correct. If you want to check, text 123456G – it should reply a list of the numbers you have authorised.

Also, check that your SIM has enough credit.

You have authorised your number correctly (see above), have had locations back in the past, but now you’re not getting anything back.

1) Obviously, if you’re not with the Tracker then you’ll need to make sure its switched on.

2) The next thing to check would be the credit – has it run out?

3) Are there any network issues – either with your mobile phone or the network of the Tracker SIM? Sometimes there can be temporary issues, which affect any and every network and this unfortunately can’t be avoided.

4) If you’ve already checked those things, then it could be that for some reason the Tracker has reset itself, therefore your number is no longer set up as an authorised user. Its unknown what can cause this, but it has been known to happen although very infrequently. Try re-sending your authorisation text – 123456A1,+44[your number without the first zero]. E.g. 123456A1,+447786444444. If you get the “1 TEL OK!” text back, then you know that the tracker is working ok – you just needed to re-authorise your number. You can now try the 123456F command again.

Unfortunately when this happens, you’ll need to re-authorise any other numbers you had set up, as well as re-send the GPRS texts (if you have this function running) and any other geo-fencing commands you may have been running.

Assuming that other functions are working, i.e. there isn’t a problem with authorised numbers.

The 123456G command will sometimes not work if all the authorised numbers are taken up – particularly A3. You could delete A3 (123456A3,D) and try it again. The 123456G isn’t a necessary function to use – its really just a sometimes-helpful one which was actually programmed in to help us with diagnostics when people were messing up their authorised numbers.

If you are getting BEFORE! at the beginning of the location text, this means that the GPS signal isn’t present – the Tracker may be indoors or just not had a chance to lock on properly yet. The location is showing the last known location instead. When the GPS signal is present again, it will automatically text you again with the update of where the Tracker is.

Getting a wildly wrong location on first use

This means that the Tracker hasn’t been able to adequately lock onto the satellites, so its showing its default factory value. As mentioned in the manual, you should switch the Tracker on outside then leave for a while until you see the blue blinking GPS light. Once it finds the satellites for the first time, it remembers them, so it will lock on a lot faster in future (if it loses them again, for example by going inside).

This is likely an issue with the Google Maps app on phones – for some reason it may show the nearest street (and the middle of that street) rather than the actual coordinates location.

When first clicking on a maplink, your phone will ask how you wish to view it – via a browswer, or via the Google Maps app. If you select browser, then it will load up Google Maps in a browser which will show the accurate location based on the coordinates.

If you select the app instead, then it will show the nearest street. If you’ve chosen this in the past and selected “show this by default”, then your phone will no longer give you the option, it will just go straight to the app. To fix this, you’ll need to find the “Default Apps” setting, under “Settings” on your phone.

We advise to set a minimum radius of about 100m for geofencing. This would mean a decent sized square for the complex method, or sending 123456P1,010 to set a 100m radius for the simpler method.

There are three main reasons why you might get false alarms whilst the person is indoors – drifting, having recently been switched on, and inaccurate geo-fence setting. We’ll go through each one in turn.

1) Signal drifting

When indoors, a clear view of enough satellites isn’t always feasible – especially over night. This results in “drifting”, where inaccuracy can occur. This is why we recommend a minimum of 100 meter radius for geofencing – and hopefully you shouldn’t then get too many false alarms.

This image shows a typical image of online tracking left on over night. You can clearly see how “fuzzy” the location gets. The blue rectangle shows what a person’s geo-fence might look like – and you can see where the false alarms get triggered on the outskirts.

These inaccuracies are only “blips” – if you were to send a 123456F command, the chances are that the location would be accurate. Because geo-fencing (and online tracking) report the location every half minute or so, there are far more chances for blips over the course of a night.

For this reason, we strongly suggest that if you get a geo-fence alert over night, send the 123456F location text just to double check.

2) The tracker gets more accurate the longer its left on

When you use the Tracker for the first time, it searches for the satellites, and needs a minimum of three to get an accurate location. As time goes on, it will acquire more and more of the overhead satellites (there are a total of 24 orbiting the earth), and be able to quicker recognise them as they go in and out of view. So accuracy increases with time – having switched it on for the first time very recently, it may not have had sufficient chance to get to that optimal level yet.

3) When you set the 123456P1 command (simple method), you need to make sure that the central point is accurate in the first place

The 123456P1 makes the center of the geo circle, the location where the Tracker is at that moment. So its best to do a 123456F check just before, to make sure its where it should be! If the tracker was indoors, and the signal was slightly inaccurate for example, that could make the center of the radius about 20m away from where you think it should be. That would then mean that drifting of 80m in the opposite direction would trigger the alert.

Our advice –

– Do a 123456F command (to check the location) before sending the 123456P1,010 command (if using the simple method)
– If you do get a geofence alert, send a 123456F command to just double check the location again.

This is more-than-likely going to be an error with how the numbers are manually entered into Google Maps. If one digit is wrong, then the location will be very inaccurate.

Make sure you put a minus sign before the latitude or longitude, if appropriate, depending on the coordinate response you get back from your tracker. For example, if the coordinates show W for latitude, then that would be a minus sign before the coordinate. Do follow the example in the manual if you’re unclear.

It won’t always be on. It might go off if a GPS signal isn’t present (e.g. indoors) OR if its been still for a while. Sending the 123456F command will likely trigger the GPS signal back into action, as long as its available.

You use your own mobile phone (cell phone) to send text messages to the tracker. That is, the SIM number inside the tracker. The text messages “program” the tracker to do various things. So for example, if you send the text message “123456F” from your mobile phone to the tracker’s phone number, then the tracker will automatically reply to you with the location link.

To authorise a phone number to be able to get answered automatically, you can add it to positions A6, A7 or A8.

When sending the text to authorise the number, include the zero of the mobile number. E.g. “123456A6,+4407786138372“.

This means that up to three phone numbers can be set up to get answered automatically – to either listen in, or talk to the Tracker holder. By using these three positions (A6, A7, A8) they won’t interfere with any other numbers you have set to get called by the Call 1 or Call 2 buttons.

If you want the same phone number to be able to make AND receive calls, then you should add it twice – once in A4 or A5 without the first zero, then again in A6, A7 or A8 but with the first zero.

As shown in the manual, its 123456U1 to answer with just the microphone, and 123456U0 to answer with the speaker and microphone.

Please see the question just above – “I want the tracker to automatically answer a call (by mic or speaker)”.

The sound quality isn’t crystal clear – due to the compact design of the device, you may hear some GSM interference coming through. It should still be adequate for listening to someone talking near the device.

Can the SOS Button be disabled?

Yes. You can actually authorise phone numbers in positions A6, A7 and A8 as well – which won’t receive alerts from the SOS button, or calls from the Call1 and Call2 buttons. If you want to do this, remember to also delete your phone number from any previous positions. For example, if you set your authorised number in position A1, send 123456A1,D to the tracker to delete it again.

Any authorised number set in the A1, A2 and A3 slots will get an SOS text alert and they will be called in turn until someone answers.

What happens if an SOS call is answered by Voicemail?

The Tracker can’t distinguish between a voicemail and a human, if its answered then its answered, and the Tracker will not call the remaining numbers. If this is a problem, then you might need to be more strategic with your authorised numbers, i.e. programming ones that are more likely to be answered sooner on the list (i.e. A1).

When I press the SOS button nothing happens

The button needs to be held down for a few seconds to take effect. You will see the amber light flash. If you don’t get any text alerts, then its likely that you haven’t pressed the button long enough, or you haven’t correctly set any authorised numbers.

The tracker will automatically set the time to GMT when it picks up a location. If you want to change the hour for daylight savings and/or a different time zone, use this command:

Text 123456L+time zone

+ for East, – for West. Time zone must be two numbers.

E.g. UK: 123456L+00
Los Angeles: 123456L-08
Paris: 123456L+01

What lights you should see

With the Tracker switched off, when charging you should see a RED light on the Tracker. With older style plugs with the red and green lights, you should see the green light on the plug go out once the Tracker is sufficiently charged. With all chargers (most have no lights, some aftermarket replacement chargers have a single red light), the red light on the TRACKER will always go out once it is sufficiently charged.

Test whether its a fault with the plug or the Tracker itself

To test if the fault is with the Tracker itself, connect your tracker and its lead to the USB port of your PC/laptop. After a few minutes (to get the residual charge back), you should see the right light on the Tracker light to indicate it’s charging. Leave it like this for a few hours. This suggests that the plug needs replacing, and will act as a charging method in the meantime. Replacement plugs can be cheaply sourced via Ebay, although we recommend you avoid the triangular ones (we’ve heard they can have issues). You can also use the relevant section below in “Other Hardware Issues” to purchase replacements.

If you don’t get a red light on the Tracker when charging via the USB port of your computer

This suggests that the Tracker may be damaged. Most of the time when this situation happens, there has been damage to the USB port on the Tracker either through water damage, incorrect insertion of the lead (which is difficult due to the shape of the connection), or something else pushed in to damage the pins. If you look closely at the pins in the small USB port on the Tracker (you may need a magnifying glass!), they should all line up in a neat little line. If you see any pins bent back or wonky, then unfortunately its been damaged.

What to look for when checking for USB damage

1. Shows a new device, and what the USB port should look like. A nice neat row of pins.

2. Shows a 15 month old device, that has been charged hundreds of times, and is still perfectly functioning and charging.

3. Shows a device with USB damage – the pins have been completely bent back, and the shape of the port has bent. What likely happened here is that someone forced the lead in upside down.

This is for customers who have lost their chargers. If you’re wanting a replacement because its not charging properly, please refer to the question above – “The charger won’t charge the Tracker – I can’t get a red light on the tracker when charging” to troubleshoot charging issues.

If you’ve lost just the USB plug, they can be sourced via Ebay, although we recommend you avoid the triangular ones (we’ve heard they can have issues).

Do not under any circumstances try to use a similar looking lead, even if it looks identical (e.g. some camera leads) – they will damage the pins inside the charging port.

To purchase replacement leads and plugs, please see the relevant sections under “Other Hardware Issues” below.

The green light shows when the charger is charging the GPS Tracker. If the green light goes out, then it means the tracker is fully charged. Sometimes, the USB connection might not be inserted properly, so give the lead a bit of a wiggle in the plug adapter just to make sure. Similarly, make sure the other end is firmly placed into the side of the GPS Tracker. The tracker comes fully charged, so if you plug it in having just opened the box, the green light won’t stay on for very long.

If you text 123456G to the Tracker, you may get a reply text with information about your settings. Here you can see the authorised numbers, APN and battery level. The last two pieces of information on this text will look like “79:30”. This would mean that your Tracker has 79% battery left, and is set to alert you when its at 30%.

If you think your Tracker isn’t charging correctly, you can try checking afterwards by using this command.

If you get no response from this command, it may be because you have a lot of functions running, or numbers in all of the A1-5 slots. Try deleting A3 (123456A3,D) and see if that helps. Remember to re-authorise A3 again though, if you need it.

Sometimes this function won’t give a reply at all though – so if that’s the case for you, then you won’t be able to check your battery level.

Remember that the default alert level is set to 30%.

When you get the low battery alert, the Tracker still has 30% left to go – which could equate to 2 days. If you want to lower this alert level to 15%, text 123456N1,15 to the Tracker. Then, you’ll get the low battery alert later rather than earlier, and still have enough time to get to it and charge it before it runs out. If you charge your Tracker too frequently, unnecessarily (i.e. before its close to actually running out) then you’ll reduce the overall longevity of the battery.

Using functions will reduce the battery duration.

If you’re using constant functions like geo-fencing, automatic text alerts or online tracking, then your Tracker will be using more energy. Battery duration will reduce to about 3-4 days.

Each time you make a location request – the battery drains a little whilst it acquires its location from the satellites and then sends you back the text message.

So constant testing or experimenting will drain the battery quicker – this is why customers sometimes get worried about the battery life in the first days of trying everything out. We have had a tracker stay on standby for 11 days before when no texts were sent to it (except for the initial authorisation and one test location text).

No – it is soldered in internally. However, they will last for years, if not damaged through misuse (e.g. hot temperatures, constant overcharging etc).

As mentioned on the product page and throughout the site – you need a SIM card inside of the tracker because they function like mini mobile phones. More details can be found here. You can order a free SIM from here.

Do not under any circumstances try to use a similar looking lead, even if it looks identical (e.g. some camera leads) – they will damage the pins inside the charging port.

However, if you wish to buy from us, you are welcome to do so via this purchase button. [/one_third] [one_third]

On the back of the SIM card is a small 6 digit serial code. You need to visit GiffGaff.com and enter this code. You’ll then give a few details, add your £10 top up (if PAYG, at the bottom of the options), then you should be good to go. You’ll get your SIM phone number show up after a short while in your GiffGaff account (maybe 20 mins).

This phone number, for the SIM, will be the phone number for your Tracker from that point on. This is the number you sent the command text messages to. It would be useful to write the phone number, when you get it, at the top of the little reminder card in your Tracker package, so that you don’t forget it.

Please remember your GiffGaff login details! You will need them to log in to check on your credit, add more credit, switch auto-renew on or off, etc.

GiffGaff, or the SIM network you choose, is a completely separate third-party company from us. Any issues relating to network signals, accounts, lost SIMs etc should be taken up directly with them.

GiffGaff, or the SIM network you choose, is a completely separate third-party company from us. Any issues relating to network signals, accounts, lost SIMs etc should be researched directly via their website.

Some useful links for GiffGaff:
Forgotten Username or Password
Lost SIM card (if the tracker is lost and you wish to cancel the SIM/reorder a replacement, requires log in first)
Service Updates (requires log in first)

This means that the SIM card is either not inside the tracker, or not installed correctly. With the tracker facing you, the connection side of the SIM should be facing you, with the cut corner at the top left corner. See the manual for the picture of which way in the SIM should go.

Once every now and again, your tracker may reset itself. This can happen if you move into an area with weak signal coverage – if the SIM becomes unrecognised, then recognised again, the tracker may reset itself. When this happens, the lights will all flash, and you may lose your authorised numbers. If this is happening frequently, then you should check the coverage for the SIM card you’re using. If you’re using GiffGaff, then its o2 coverage that you need to be looking at.

This more than likely means that either their is a network signal problem, or the tracker is damaged. Put the SIM in another mobile phone, and see if you are getting a signal or not.

Click here to set up online tracking.

If you follow the guide (above) correctly, it will work – look closely to see what you might be doing wrong. Here are some common mistakes:

• You haven’t enabled online tracking by sending 123456D to your Tracker’s SIM.
• Your SIM card doesn’t allow data (if you used a GiffGaff SIM then this isn’t going to be a problem).
• You selected a device type other than PT-20.
• You didn’t put 123456 as the device password, you put some other password.
• You made a mistake in the APN text message.
• You haven’t put in the correct IMEI number – check your location texts (the IMEI is at the end of a location text) and double check you entered it correctly.
• You forgot to put “+44” before your phone number in the settings.

Yes! We wrote this neat little guide to get your online tracking working better on a Smart Phone (Android, Blackberry, iPhone etc). Although, you can always just text the device too for a location.

This is perfectly normal, and is called “drifting”.

When indoors, a clear view of enough satellites isn’t always feasible – especially over night. This results in drifting, where inaccuracy can occur. Because the tracker uploads its locations every half minute or so, there is more chance of the brief inaccurate “blips” being picked up.

This image shows a typical image of online tracking left on over night. You can clearly see how “fuzzy” the location gets.

Drifting can be made worse by surrounding foliage, being in an apartment block, surrounding electrical interference.

If you were to send a 123456F command, the chances are that the location would be accurate – the blips are normally only very brief (but enough to show up with the online tracking map making it look messier than it really is).

Its absolutely minimal – over the course of a month, it will only amount to just a few megabytes. The £5 goodybag from GiffGaff gives 20mb per month, which is more than enough to cover online tracking.

Visit the geo-fencing guide by clicking here.

We advise to set a minimum radius of about 100m for geofencing. This would mean a decent sized square for the complex method, or sending 123456P1,010 to set a 100m radius for the simpler method.

There are three main reasons why you might get false alarms whilst the person is indoors – drifting, the tracker having recently been switched on, and inaccurate geo-fence setting. We’ll go through each one in turn.

1) Signal drifting

When indoors, a clear view of enough satellites isn’t always feasible – especially over night. This results in “drifting”, where inaccuracy can occur. This is why we recommend a minimum of 100 meter radius for geofencing – and hopefully you shouldn’t then get too many false alarms.

This image shows a typical image of online tracking left on over night. You can clearly see how “fuzzy” the location gets. The blue rectangle shows what a person’s geo-fence might look like – and you can see where the false alarms get triggered on the outskirts.

These inaccuracies are only “blips” – if you were to send a 123456F command, the chances are that the location would be accurate. Because geo-fencing (and online tracking) report the location every half minute or so, there are far more chances for blips over the course of a night.

For this reason, we strongly suggest that if you get a geo-fence alert over night, send the 123456F location text just to double check.

2) The tracker gets more accurate the longer its left on

When you use the Tracker for the first time, it searches for the satellites, and needs a minimum of three to get an accurate location. As time goes on, it will acquire more and more of the overhead satellites (there are a total of 24 orbiting the earth), and be able to quicker recognise them as they go in and out of view. So accuracy increases with time – having switched it on for the first time very recently, it may not have had sufficient chance to get to that optimal level yet.

3) When you set the 123456P1 command (simple method), you need to make sure that the central point is accurate in the first place

The 123456P1 makes the center of the geo circle, the location where the Tracker is at that moment. So its best to do a 123456F check just before, to make sure its where it should be! If the tracker was indoors, and the signal was slightly inaccurate for example, that could make the center of the radius about 20m away from where you think it should be. That would then mean that drifting of 80m in the opposite direction would trigger the alert.

Our advice –

– Allow about 2 days from initially setting up, for the tracker to lock onto all the satellites.
– Do a 123456F command (to check the location) before sending the 123456P1,010 command (if using the simple method)
– If you do get a geofence alert, send a 123456F command to just double check the location again, before shooting out to check.

To cancel the complex method, send 123456I1,0,0

To cancel the simple method, repeat the text you originally sent, but with a zero instead of a one after the capital P. So that’s 123456P0,020 for example.

If you get completely stuck, don’t have the original text in your phones memory and want to cancel in an emergency (e.g. floods of alert texts coming through), then send RESET! to restore the Tracker to factory default. You’ll then have to re-authorise the numbers again, before being able to make location requests.